I wrote:
> <xsl:variable name="q">'</xsl:variable>
> <xsl:value-of select="translate(/Legende,$q,concat($q,$q))" />

Jeez, that was dumb. Still recovering from the weekend, I guess.
As Jeni said, use a recursive template. My demo is at
http://skew.org/xml/stylesheets/replace/

 XSL-List info and archive:  http://www.mulberrytech.com/xsl/xsl-list